The Complete Buying Guide To Levis Jeans: All Fits Explained
School yourself on the history, study the terminology, shop the jeans.
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In the beginning, there was one: the 501. In 1873, Levi Strauss and Co. received a patent for blue jeans reinforced with rivets and began producing stronger pants for working men. Over the past century, the brands jeans became a favorite of miners, laborers, rock stars and city-dwellers a quintessential American garment that transcended all social classes. And since the advent of the 501, Levis has created dozens of fits for its ever-growing clientele.
How Do I Know If My Levis Are Valuable
Clothing accessories such as the E on a Levis tab or the E Selvage edges on an inside cuff are both high-value indicators. A leather patch, as opposed to a paper patch, is more valuable than a paper patch on the back of the jeans. Collectors also look for concealed copper rivets, which are also known as copper rivets.
What Jeans Are Similar To Levi
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About Vintage Levi’s Jeans And Why Post
A few important albeit vital developments occurred between the turn of the century and 1960: Levis starts sourcing its denim from the Cone Mills in Greensboro, North Carolina Levis adds belt loops to the pants Cone Mills makes selvedge red line denim exclusively for the 501s Levis introduces the Red Tab Levis trademarks the Arcuate pocket stitch design Levis starts calling its overalls jeans and Levis introduces zippered jeans to east coast audiences.
All of these are important they were baby steps on the companys journey to defining American fashion. But its 1971 I am using as a starting point for this journey my recounting of Levis history. Its when Levis changed the Red Tabs text on the back right pocket from LEVIS to Levis, inventing the divide between Big E and Little E jeans. A few years prior, in 1967, citing complaints that the rivets wore through the fabric Levis placed over them and scratched whatever surfaces the wearer sat on, Levis removed the back pocket rivets in favor of bar tacks. Cue, in my opinion, the beginning of the modern era. Youll know a pair predates 1967 if they have rivets on the back pockets,1971 if they have a Big E on the butt, 1986 if theyre Red Line selvedge and 1999 if theyre Orange Tab.
How Do I Know If My Old Levis Are Worth Money

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A Glossary Of Key Terms/concepts:
Denim: The fabric used to make jeans, this strong cotton twill is dyed with indigo which gives it a distinctive blue shade. In recent years, this all-cotton fabric is woven with a small percentage of stretch material for comfort. Vintage Levi’s are made from 100-percent cotton.
5-pocket: The foundational design of all blue jeans designed by Levis. The 5-pocket design is simple: two front internal pockets, one right-hand coin pocket originally a watch pocket and two back patch pockets.
Rivets: This is another foundational feature of all Levis, copper rivets are placed at a handful of stress points on the jeans including the back pockets until 1967.
Red Tab: The Red Tab is the small red tag on the back right pocket. Learn more about Levis tab colors here.
Big E: Levis switched the text logo on their back red tabs from all caps to lowercase in 1971, meaning jeans made prior will have LEVIS on them. Ones made after will look like this: Levis.
Orange Tab : Levis introduced a budget-friendly line of fashion jeans they were less expensive and less burly than worker jeans that had an orange tab instead of a red one.
Cone Mills: Cone Mills White Oak opened in 1895 and supplied Levi’s with selvedge denim starting in 1913. The North Carolina operation stayed in business in 2017, when it closed due to a lack of orders.
Levi’s Authorized Vintage: Levi’s launched its own certified vintage line in 2017. There they sold authenticated old pairs.
How Vintage Levis Have Impacted The Industry
Levis is the foundation for denim around the world. As such, everything thats come after the original 501 is influenced by Levis: that includes other gigantic brands, Japanese repro brands and plenty of US-based denim startups.
The many iterations of Levis jeans have spawned different inspired offshoots, too: Japanese denim modeling itself after Cone Mills Levis-exclusive denim some makers mimicking the fit of 501s from a certain decade other makers paying homage to particular faults found on vintage pairs and beyond. There are tiny parts of Levis lore that inspired entire lines like how the Cone Mills wooden floors are etched into the weft of every pair they made or how the legs of jeans twist a certain way. Its these uniquities that make vintage Levis so covetable and the reproductions that reference these tiny ticks so exciting.
The more you learn about Levis jeans , the clearer the companys influence becomes. Nerd out. Its OK.
How Can You Tell Fake Levis 501
There will always be a running number on the back of the waist button. In addition to the care tags on the jeans, this number will be visible on one of four fabric tags. If you have them, be sure to find and match them so you can be confident that they are genuine levis. The 501 button fly will have a clean, angled stich.
The Vintage Levi’s Landscape: Which To Buy Basic Pricing Info Sizing Tips
Youd be here forever if I listed off every pair of vintage Levis you could potentially buy. Simply put: Im being intentionally short. Stick to the 501 or 505. These are the most abundant and thus the least likely to be scammed on. If you feel youre being price gouged, just walk away . There will be another pair.
Now that you know which to buy, heres what to look for, and how much you should spend. First, check the care tag. Care tags were added to Levis jeans by law in the 70s. Theyll be your north star where you look before you check anything else. Theyll let you know whether theyre made-in-the-US, or whether theyre vintage at all. And if theyre really old ones without them are 60s-era or earlier.
Second, know your measurements. Hold this data set dear to your heart, and heed it whenever youre about to click buy . Sizing has changed jeans shrink and stretch measurements will never lie. Knowing your own will ensure your jeans always fit even when you cant try them on.
Dont be afraid to buy damaged jeans, says Levis Tailoring and Customization Designer, Jennifer Sharkey. Denim holds up really well and is very good for repairs. It does beautifully under being repaired, tailored and reworn. Dont be afraid to buy something that has some aesthetic damage that usually just adds to the jeans. Knee holes, scuffed hems, torn pockets, anything that doesnt impact the wearability will just add to the look.
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What The Levi’s Numbers Mean
All Levis jeans follow a similar naming sequence, beginning with the 501. But, the reason for the 501 designation is, as we said, a bit of a mystery. Around 1890 is when we started calling our copper-riveted waist overalls the 501, says Jonathan Cheung, the Senior Vice President of Design Innovation at Levis. The mystery surrounding the number is largely due to the San Francisco earthquake of 1906 that destroyed many of the companys files. The 501 was a product identification number, but we dont know the reason why it was a three digit number beginning with five, said Cheung. So now, as an homage to the companys legacy, all Levis fits are denoted by a number: 501, 505 and 511, among others. Each number denotes a cut designed for a specific style and body type.
Throughout the 20th century, Levis also made jeans outside of the 500 series. The 200s in the 1920s and 600s in the 1960s were both designed to be more affordable. But for ease of use, this guide will only describe the fits that are made by Levis today. Levi’s Vintage Clothing and Levis Made and Crafted are not included in this guide.
Since the release of 501s, Levis expanded its offering to include numerous fits for different occasions and lifestyles. Currently, the brand offers well over a dozen silhouettes for men heres how to tell them apart.
Is Levis 501 Worth It
When it comes to classic jeans at an affordable price, no other fit beats the 501 Standard Fit. Denim isnt the material of choice, but thats all part of the fun. Because the jeans are solid and dependable, they can be purchased at a reasonable price point, and they are manufactured in overseas factories.
Levis And The Blue Jeans Patent
Work pants made of denim were worn as early as the 17th century. The first blue jeans date back to May 20, 1873, when the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office granted patent #139,121 to Levi Strauss & Co. and Jacob Davis for the process of placing rivets on mens denim work pants for strength. Levi Strauss has actually been manufacturing denim clothing since 1853 and spent the next 20 years perfecting their unique product before being granted a patent for it.
The best thing about jeans is their versatility and Levis wrote the book on denim versatility. Levis jeans are tough as nails yet comfortable as can be, universally flattering and easy to step up or dress down. You can take each and every pair of Levis jeans and adapt it to any of your needs. Pair a slim fit in a dark wash with a button-up and lace-up leather shoes for a day-to-night foundation or combine a straight fit in a lighter wash with a hoodie and sneakers for a casual and modern aesthetic. Jeans are so authentic and adaptable that youll look good no matter what youre wearing. Check out our jeans style guides for men and women and find the perfect fitting, perfect looking pair of Levis for you and every member of your family.
What Can You Do With Old Levis

If an item is deemed to be suitable for resale, Levis will wash it and sell it again on its dedicated store. If the item is not recycled, it will be given a $5 credit to the customer, and the item will be recycled. Patagonia introduced Worn Wear in 2017 to pique public interest in the product line.
Shop Latest Menswear And Women Clothing Online At Levis India
For more than a century, Levis® has been making clothes for men and women from all walks of life. Premium quality denim and apparels that are a part of mens shopping are wearable forms of self-expression for individuals.
Be it a normal workday, or dressing up for a party, youll find comfortable menswear fashion for every occasion. Your search for the best clothes for men ends at Levis®, whether you are shopping for a loved one or revamping your wardrobe. For the statement-making woman, Levis® has denim jeans that every woman needs in her life. With our womens shopping range, dress up with confidence every day of the week. Online shopping for women gets easier with our style experts that help you choose the best outfits that are durable and iconic. Like all other collections, Levis® womenswear is sustainable, versatile, aesthetic and utilitarian.
At Levis®, we focus on innovations that make all our products and jeans as durable as ever with materials that are sourced responsibly, helping create a bond between you and the environment.
Levi’s A Cult Brand And A Fashion Essential
Today the company makes clothing that is young and vibrant, and a great advertising campaign featured a range of music that elevated the brand to cult status. Levi’s women’s clothing is one of the many faces of this stylish label, and a line that includes women’s Levi’s jeans, shirts, dresses and t-shirts ensures that ladies can choose from some of the most exciting casual clothing available. Jeans come in classic blue denim as well as a wide variety of colours and dyes, including deep indigo, midnight oil and black, while styles such as slim fit, skinny, boot cut, straight leg and tapered fit mean that whatever your preference, you can rely on finding a great garment. A range of Levi’s shoes completes the look, and you’ll find some of the most exciting Levi’s men’s t-shirts, as well as a fabulous collection for women and kids at Zalando.
Why Do My Levis Not Say Levis On The Red Tag
As a result, a certain percentage of Levis products must bear a plain red tab with the trademark symbol otherwise, they must bear the trademark symbol only on a small percentage of their products. As a result, this indicates that Levis owns trademark rights to the Tab itself rather than solely to Levis brand.
What’s The Difference Between Vintage And New Levi’s
Why buy vintage at all? Well, sustainable and stretch denim aside, jeans havent changed much since their debut. So, go back in time and grab a pair from the late 60s onward, and revel in the glory of fashions original journeyman: Levis blue jeans.
The primary difference between vintage and new pairs is the quality of the denim noticeable in the weight, thickness and shape. Sure, vintage pairs have probably been broken in quite a bit, but they should feel more significant than new jeans. Brand-new they probably felt more like your Carhartts: crispy, tightly-woven and tough to break in.
Levis stopped making jeans in the US in 2003, but the decline started at least a decade prior, when Levis began reproducing its vintage pairs under the Levis Vintage Clothing line, in part, I believe, to capitalize on interest in vintage Levis and counteract quality issues switching to inferior materials, struggling to control mass manufacturing with its current catalog. So, stick to jeans made between 1967 and 1992 . There are plenty of markers in this window which can help you pinpoint them to a particular calendar year.
But know youre not the only one looking: Emma Grant, Head of Consumer Selling at eBay, told Vogue shes witnessed a 268-percent surge in searches for vintage denim jeans.
Level Up Your Look With Levis Jeans
Selection
Shop the latest selection of Levis jeans at DICKS Sporting Goods. DICKS carries a great selection of Levis jeans for men, women and kids in a variety of sizes and styles. If you find a better price on Levis jeans from another qualifying retailer, well match it with our Best Price Guarantee.
Discover the Latest Womens Levis Jeans
Levis jeans for women offer flattering fits without sacrificing comfort. Find the perfect pair at DICKS. If you like the look and feel of a close-fitting style, consider the Levis 721 High Rise Skinny Jeans. These jeans run narrow through the leg, while the stretch denim offers curve-hugging comfort. If you prefer a straight-leg look, check out the Levis 724 High Rise Straight. You can also showcase your shape with the popular Levis Wedgie Fit Jeans, an iconic style offering a snug fit through the hips and thighs.
Learn More About Levis Jeans for Men
Men depend on Levis jeans to provide smart style, functional fits and rugged durability. Youll find these qualities in each pair of mens Levis jeans available at DICKS. From vintage styles like 501 ’93 Straight Jeans to modern trends such as Levi’s Men’s 511 Slim Jeans, youll find the perfect fit at DICKS.
Browse Levi’s for Kids
For nearly 150 years, Levis has defined denim. DICK’S is proud to take part in the tradition by carrying the Levi’s name online and in store.
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What Do The Different Levi Numbers Mean
Men wear Levis clothing in every way because of the overall fit, which includes the rise of the waist, the cut of the leg opening, and the fit of the seat. Womens styles are intended to indicate their fit through the waist, hips, and thighs, with many different leg shapes and cuts available to choose from.
Are Old Levis Worth Money
If youre a collector, like old fashion style, or just want to make some cash, vintage levis are a good investment. Vintage Levis can sell for up to $10,000, depending on their age and style. The Levis 501 jeans, which were first introduced in 1873 during the American gold rush, have been around for more than a century.
Did Levis Change 501

Levis jeans have evolved significantly since the first pair of riveted overalls were given the 501 designation around 1890 . Theyve gained pockets and lost cinches, but theyre still fashionable. In the past, the fit has expanded and contracted, depending on the style. They have evolved as a result of development.